The fast-talking, super-enthusiastic Jim Clendenen is fashioning some of the most dazzling wines in California. The upcoming and current releases of Pinot Noir from Au Bon Climat are equally stunning in terms of their complexity and richness. The 1991 Pinot Noir-Talley Vineyard displays a woodsy, herbaceous, cinnamon, and black-cherry-scented nose, supple, fat, luscious flavors, excellent length, and a long, soft, spicy finish. Drink it over the next 5-6 years.