Smoky, fusil, quarry dust Colin notes mingle with apple, white peach, and lemon in the nose of Colin's 2007 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chenevottes. Silken in texture while bright and refreshing; with a pitting of almond and peach kernel against honey and liquid floral perfume; this caries more diverse mineral characteristics into its finish than does the corresponding Vergers, engendering a saliva-tapping, faintly animal (or perhaps piscine) savor. I'd expect this to be worth following for 4-6 years. Bruno Colin continues vinify his share of inheritance (modestly supplemented by contract fruit) in the family's ancient cellars, which now permit his wines longer time assembled in tank and later bottling. He says he did very little batonnage in 2007 (even less in 2006) and is treating his wines to higher levels of sulfur as a further precaution against pre-mature oxidation. (Some of these wines, incidentally, continue to be bottled under the Colin-Deleger label.) Imported by Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185; Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400; Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524