The 2006 Pinot Noir Reserve is dark ruby-colored with an alluring perfume of pain grille, spice box, black cherry, and black raspberry. This is followed by a generous, full-bodied wine with mouth-coating fruit, a velvety texture, layers of flavor, and enough structure to evolve for 2-3 years. The rich, persistent finish goes on for nearly one minute. Give it 3-4 years to evolve and drink it from 2012 to 2022. Ponzi Vineyards remains a reference point for American Pinot Noir with winemaker Luisa Ponzi at the top of her game.Tel. (503) 628-1227; www.ponziwines.com

Plum and pepper, berries and bark; ripe cherries and sharp spices give this lovely Pinot Noir more than its share of cascading flavors; it just keeps on surprising you with something new. Despite all the razzle dazzle, it’s a balanced wine whose ripe fruits roll gracefully into a finish loaded with creamy mocha.——P.G.(2/1/2009)—— 92