As with the previous year’s bottling, this wine is shut down with tannins and toasty oak. Dark and polished, with flavors of black fruits, coffee and spice trying to emerge, the wine’s nose gives it away as an ager, offering damp earth, later transforming to coffee, spice and rich, dark fruit. Throw a case in your cellar until 2008, then try a bottle a year after that. ——M.D.(12/15/2006)—— 91