A “two star” 2006 Veldenzer Elisenberg Riesling Auslese (also labeled as “Fass 83”) boasts fine concentration of white peach, blueberry, mint and citrus; a faintly oily texture and expansive palate richness; and a pure, penetrating, invigorating finish of admirable length as well as lift. Here at last in the current collection we glimpse some of the unique greatness of this Middle Mosel vintage, as well as a remarkable balance between high residual sugar and high acidity and great elegance and buoyancy even at over 9% alcohol. This should keep well for 30 years. Richter did not attempt any Beerenauslesen this year, saying that by the time he could consider it, it was scarcely possible to distinguish the noble botrytis for the bad.“My minmum must weight was 100,” says Dirk Richter, almost in tones of exasperation, rendering it hard to craft lighter-weight wines, particularly at the restrained levels of residual sugar that usually characterize his estate. Some of Richter’s dry-tasting wines had difficulty coming to terms with their alcohol, and as he was the first to admit, in 2006 this could happen even with “feinherb” wines of more than 15 grams residual sugar. He wasn’t able to get his full picking crew (mostly Poles) in place until October 10, and many of this years wines appeared to struggle with the rougher aspects of botrytis and/or the effects of having tried to remove their taint from the musts. “We ended up just leaving the grapes hanging in some parcels,” says this veteran, “which is something I have never experienced.” (Incidentally, Richter and his importer appear to have collaborated in lowering his prices in the U.S. market for this vintage, despite the weak dollar.)Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800

From a late picking, the 2006 Veldenzer Elisenberg Riesling Auslese reveals (behind a light veil of residual fermentative notes) considerable diversity of pit fruits, flowers, and brown spices, with bright citricity running like a refreshing and electrifying current throughout. The family resemblance to the Elisenberg Spatlese, and the advantage of this site in 2006 are apparent, although this silken-textured Riesling still misses the refinement and elegance to which the best 2006s aspire. Time will probably bring more depth, and one could probably hold this for 25 years without it diminishing. “My minmum must weight was 100,” says Dirk Richter, almost in tones of exasperation, rendering it hard to craft lighter-weight wines, particularly at the restrained levels of residual sugar that usually characterize his estate. Some of Richter’s dry-tasting wines had difficulty coming to terms with their alcohol, and as he was the first to admit, in 2006 this could happen even with “feinherb” wines of more than 15 grams residual sugar. He wasn’t able to get his full picking crew (mostly Poles) in place until October 10, and many of this years wines appeared to struggle with the rougher aspects of botrytis and/or the effects of having tried to remove their taint from the musts. “We ended up just leaving the grapes hanging in some parcels,” says this veteran, “which is something I have never experienced.” (Incidentally, Richter and his importer appear to have collaborated in lowering his prices in the U.S. market for this vintage, despite the weak dollar.)Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800