The 2008 Veldenzer Elisenberg Riesling Auslese smells of apple and quince, which then come to the palate accompanied by almost aggressive citricity. Suggestions of white peach, grapefruit, and wet stone dominate this Riesling of satisfying vivacity and cut and satisfying chew of fruit skin, if neither notable complexity nor richness. Like last year’s rendition, this has two decades of aging potential and will probably gain depth in the course of its maturation. “We had the November weather in October, and the lovely October weather in November,” says Dirk Richter of 2008, thereby essentially explaining his harvest strategy. He ameliorated acidity through skin contact; nature helped by precipitating tartrates; and nonetheless, some wines were de-acidified already as must. Richter is pleased to characterize the results as “classic Mosel Rieslings,” and since Richter spends a great deal of time promoting his wines in the U.S. I am happy to be able to concur in that description, even if some of his 2008s are only modestly successful. Richter admits that this collection is likely at least for the short term to be overshadowed by those on either side of it, but speculates that the 2008s will have their day if given time.Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Cleveland,?OH; tel. (216) 861-6800