The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques bursts from the glass with dark red fruit in an exciting, viscerally thrilling style that captures the personality of the vintage. The wine is beginning to shut down and will require patience, but it should be pretty spectacular when it emerges from its slumber. Layers of fruit build to the sensual inviting finish. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2029. Importer: Kobrand Corp., Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7756

The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques is a silky, elegant wine. Crushed flowers, berries and sweet spices are woven together in a fabric of inimitable class. This is an understated, slightly ethereal Burgundy that can be enjoyed with minimal cellaring. The finish is round and harmonious. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029. I tasted an impressive range of wines with Jacques Lardiere and his successor Frederic Barnier, who is slated to take over when Lardiere retires at the end of 2012. Jadot makes a mind-bending number of wines, but I limited myself to the best 35 or so examples. In 2009 Jadot began harvesting on September 6. All of the reds were made from 100% destemmed fruit. Maceration times varied from wine to wine, but according to Lardiere all of the wines were made with essentially the same approach. Lardiere is another of the producers who compares 2009 to 1959, and believes the wines will age well because of their density of fruit and minerality. Many of the estate’s own vineyards are farmed biodynamically, but of course Jadot also sources a significant amount of wine from other growers that is not necessarily from biodynamically farmed vineyards.Importer: Kobrand Corp., Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7756

This red is lavishly oaky, yet remains supple and packed with cherry and raspberry flavors. It's also elegant and vibrant, courtesy of the lively acidity. Firms up on the finish. Best from 2015 through 2028. 180 cases imported. –BS