After a tough 2002 vintage, Delas has bounced back nicely with this wine, which shows uncommon depth and intensity for a humble Cotes du Ventoux. Bold scents of black cherries, blackberries and earth rise from the glass and there’s plenty of richness on the palate, even some slightly rustic tannins to help rein in all that fruit. Notes of licorice, tar and earth on the finish make it more than a simple fruit bomb.——J.C.(11/15/2004)—— 88