Delas Freres has produced two other outstanding sleepers of the vintage, and both wines dramatically over-deliver for their appellations. The 2009 Cotes du Ventoux (80% Grenache and 20% Syrah) ratchets up the levels of intensity and richness beyond what one can usually find at such an incredibly fair price. Deep ruby/purple, with loads of texture and density, red and black fruits, a salty sea breeze note, and the classic seaweed wrapper found in sushi restaurants (nori) are all present in this generously endowed, corpulent wine. Drink it over the next 4-5 years. The brilliant Jacques Granges remains in control of all winemaking at Delas Freres, and he has produced some of his greatest wines in 2009 for the northern cuvees. Moreover, this is a firm that has surged ahead in quality over the last 15 years, and their southern Rhone selections are increasingly impressive, including some excellent bargains. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Perfumy, with succulent plum, blackberry and black cherry fruit, backed by subtle lavender, violet and iron notes. The finish is stylish. Drink now. -JM

Aged exclusively in stainlesss steel tanks prior to bottling, this blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah is a chunky, medium-bodied red ideal for drinking over the next few years. Subtle plum and black cherry notes pick up hints of leather, earth and spice, with an ample dusting of tannin on the finish.——J.C.(12/15/2011)—— 89