This is a new reserve-style bottling, produced at less than 50 cases. It’s an unusual Pinot for Iron Horse, being darker, softer and fuller-bodied, without the crisp acids usually associated with Green Valley. Yet it’s immensely complicated. You could criticize it for being Rhone-like, but it’s silky, airy and Pinotesque all the way. The operative word is “fascinating”. Every sip is different, and an adventure. ——S.H.(12/31/2006)—— 94