Along with winemaker Kim Johnston, they continue to fashion brilliant wines, including a new cuvee, the 2004 Shiraz Dead Letter Office. This 100% Shiraz was aged in 100% American oak, of which 80% was new. It is one of those modern-styled, exuberant, super-concentrated Aussie Shiraz that drives Eurocentric wine tasters crazy. The wine is too good to be true, does not have to be explained, and does not make any pretension to being a terroir wine. It offers oodles of blackberry and cassis fruit, smoky oak, an unctuous, opulent texture, and thrilling levels of fruit and glycerin. This is exactly what wine should be all about ... fun and pleasure. Enjoy it over the next 5-7 years. Importer: Dan Philips, The Grateful Palate, Oxnard, CA; tel. (888) 472-5283