The 2004 GARRAFEIRA PRIVATE SELECTION (3,500 cases produced) is primarily a blend of Alicante Bouschet and Syrah, with a little Touriga Nacional, aged for 18 months in new French oak. The Garrafeiras are usually among Esporao’s best wines. On first taste of this a year or so ago at the winery, I thought it was arguably the best wine I had had from Esporao, but it was shut down pretty hard and quite ferocious. It seems dramatically changed, and not necessarily for the better. It is wide open now and showing surprising approachability, with a very different demeanor than I saw at the winery. The blend is working beautifully, the wine dominated at the moment by the beautiful Alicante flavors, but showing just enough Syrah earthiness underneath to give the wine a little distinction and complexity. The oak is a little prominent at the moment, but it integrates with some air. It is an elegant, rather restrained wine in many respects, harmonious, but lacking the intensity that would make it truly distinguished. I’m not sure this fulfills its early promise, in the sense that it does not outperform the ’03 or ’01, but that doesn’t mean it is a slouch. In fact, it is quite delicious, round and sensual, projecting great harmony and soft, sensual texture. Some air does bring out some underlying tannins, but I’m still surprised at how quickly it has rounded into form and shed its tannins. I kept waiting for it to develop into something more in the decanter, and it never really did. The suggested retail price has increased to $50 this year compared to an SRP of $40 for the 2003 vintage I reviewed in 2006. Drink now-2014. This old stalwart in Alentejo provides some of the best buys in Portugal. Its current lineup is notable for the number of fine values, even with the continuing problems with exchange rates (many of these prices may have been set before the recent resurgence of the dollar). Sometimes, the big question here is simply why you should bother to trade up to their more expensive wines.Importers: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044; for Washington and Oregon only: Vinum Importing, Redmond, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843