Delorme’s 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee la Reine des Bois is up with the top eight to ten wines of the vintage. Made from 80% Grenache then smaller amounts of Mourvèdre, Vaccarèse, Syrah and Counoise—all from the famed la Crau lieu-dit—it reveals an inky ruby color as well as sexy, youthful notes of barbecue smoke, black currants, licorice, toasted spice and graphite. Reminiscent of the estate's terrific 2000 Cuvee de la Reine des Bois, this full-bodied, concentrated and layered beauty has plenty of tannin, terrific purity and a big finish. It will drink nicely for another decade.

For a cuvee that sees a lot of barrique, this is relatively understated on the nose, letting the rich, voluptuous layers of fruit slowly envelop the palate. Black cherry and plum notes are accented by hints of chocolate and baking spice. Although this is approachable now, it should easily last through 2020.——J.C.(12/15/2009)—— 94