The 2003 Reserve Claret is a blend of 67% Merlot and 33% Cabernet Sauvignon that achieved 14.4% alcohol. An exquisite candidate for wine of the vintage, it comes from a vineyard high on the summit of Spring Mountain. Eighty-three percent of the fruit comes from Sonoma and the rest from Napa County as the vineyard sits astride the county lines. Its dark plum/garnet color reveals a slight lightening at the edge. A beautiful nose of cedarwood, forest floor, red and black currants, kirsch and plum is followed by a full-bodied wine with great freshness, a rich, textured mouthfeel and sensational concentration with no heaviness. This is an uplifting, quintessential mountain Cabernet Sauvignon that outperforms the vintage. Just entering its plateau of full maturity, it can be drunk now and over the next decade. Tel. (707) 963-4949

The 2003 Reserve Claret (83% from Sonoma and 17% from Napa) is a blend of two-thirds Merlot and one-third Cabernet Sauvignon. A gorgeous effort, it boasts a deep ruby/purple hue as well as a stunning perfume of mocha, espresso roast, chocolate, black cherries, berries, and spice box. A fabulous texture, multidimensional mouthfeel, and excellent purity result in a full, complete wine that coats the palate and finishes with no hard edges. Enjoy it over the next 10-15 years. Previously recommended: 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (96+), 2002 Reserve Claret (97+).Tel. (707) 963-4949; Fax (707) 963-6039

If you’re lucky enough to try this with Pride’s reserve Cab, which is 100% varietal, you’ll find this one fleshier and meatier. Based on Merlot, it shows a voluptuous fatness, a chocolate-covered cherry candy immediacy, that makes it drinkable now. At the same time, it has big, dusty, mouth-coating tannins. Drink now, with decanting, or cellar for 10 years.——S.H.(3/1/2007)—— 95