The two most expensive offerings include the 2007 Reserve Claret. Its opaque purple color is followed by a beautiful flowery nose revealing notions of blueberry pie, blackberries, cassis and a hint of vanillin in the background. An opulent, full-bodied red with great depth, purity and richness, it is a blend of 82% Sonoma fruit and 18% Napa fruit. The texture is like a skyscraper and the wine is plush, opulent and ideal for drinking over the next 10-15 years. This brilliant estate, whose vineyards straddle the Napa/Sonoma county line at the top of Spring Mountain, continues to turn out a bevy of exciting wines that first made headlines when Bob Foley was the winemaker. The transition from Foley to the current winemaker, Sally Johnson, has gone flawlessly. Tel. (707) 963-4949; Fax (707) 963-6039

This is a big, hard, tannic wine. It’s so buttoned up, the question is whether it will age. Most of the signs say yes. It’s gigantically rich in blackberries, cassis and chocolate, with a berried sweetness accented by the caramel of toasted oak. Acidity is just fine. On the other hand, the alcohol is notable, giving it peppery heat. A very fine, flashy, impressive wine, but its future is obscure.——S.H.(8/1/2011)—— 93