The dark ruby/purple-colored 1997 Zinfandel Sonoma Station (75% Zinfandel, 13% Carignan, 8% Petite Sirah, and 4% Alicante Bouchet) exhibits a big, briery, peppery, spicy nose, dense, rich, cherry and blackberry flavors, a deep, lush texture, and fine purity and intensity. It should be drunk over the next 5-6 years. Tel. (408) 867-3233

An easy-drinking Zin that provides a good introduction to the Paul Draper style. There’s a dollop of toasty oak that somehow resembles maple syrup, plenty of berry fruit, and just enough structure to prevent the whole package from being fat or heavy. Although it lacks the complexity or concentration of Ridge’s single-vineyard bottlings, it’s very good in its own right.——J.C.(9/1/1999)—— 88