As though its wines at the Selection de Grains Nobles level were not concentrated and powerful enough to knock tasters off their feet, Domaine Weinbach crafts some of the most intense wines on earth under the Quintessence de Grains Nobles moniker. This jammy, syrupy nectar combines massive sugar levels with bracing acidity. Readers should be aware that this wine is meant for sipping in lieu of dessert. It is simply too intense and dominating to be matched with most foods.The gold-colored 1997 Gewurztraminer Altenbourg Quintessence de Grains Nobles boasts unheard of quantities of red fruits, golden peaches, candied tangerines, quince jam, dried raisins, and spices in its full-bodied, massively powerful personality. Drink this standard-setter over the next 15-30 years. Since Laurence Faller took over the winemaking duties at Domaine Weinbach (1993/94) there have been marked stylistic changes to the wines. They remain extremely well-made, rich, and concentrated yet are less generous in their youth than under the former winemaker's regime. I am, however, convinced that the wines presently being produced at this famed estate will be longer-lived than those from the past.Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802.