This extremely ripe, cherry jam- and sweet licorice-flavored red also boasts a dense infrastructure of tannins. This is monolithic now, but it looks like the sheer concentration of fruit will stand up to its structure in the long run. Best from 2013 through 2035. 500 cases made. -BS

This Riserva Barolo offers a unique perspective on the Nebbiolo grape. There’s a ton of natural spice in this expression but it’s not the obvious vanilla and clove. Instead, this wine delivers dried currant, licorice, anise, earth and sweet cherry. It has a round, velvety feel and a soft finish. It’s ready to drink now or could age more.——M.L.(4/1/2009)—— 91