The 2004 Barolo is a classically-built wine redolent of perfumed, sweet fruit, violets, spices, tar, new leather, menthol and herbs. This medium-bodied, firm Barolo offers outstanding elegance and purity. It is a terrific effort at this level. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014. Brothers Franco and Roberto Massolino have a top-flight set of wines with their 2004 Barolos. The wines are fermented in cement, then undergo malolactic fermentation in a combination of cement and steel prior to being racked into large Slavonian oak casks for roughly two and half years. The Parafada is the only Barolo that sees French oak. Readers who want to learn more about the estate can re-visit my recent feature on www.erobertparker.com. mporter: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

Raspberry, truffle, tobacco and cedar on the nose. Full-bodied, with a solid core of fruit and ultrafine tannins. ZThis is refined, yet structured and muscular. Best after 2011. 2,500 cases made, 830 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add

Sweet cherry nose, a bit tarry. Rich, hefty tannins, moderate acidity, weighty, but no finesse, fatiguing.