Originating in the Aspen and Gehren portions of its Einzellage, the Muller-Catoir 2009 Haardter Burgergarten Riesling Spatlese trocken smells alkaline, saline, subtly fusil, and in general intriguingly marine. Tart plum, fresh lime and almond oil mingle in interactive complexity with the myriad mineral elements on a refreshing though firm palate, leading to a finish of impressive and predominantly mineral grip, in which hints of iodine and peat add to the aforementioned cast. Here is another instance at its address where 13% alcohol is belied by the wine’s sense of buoyancy, not to mention an absence of heat or roughness. This should go on fascinating for another 6-8 years, perhaps longer. “Despite sporadic rain at harvest time,” notes Martin Franzen about the 2009 harvest, “cool weather kept botrytis completely at bay. Frankly,” he adds, “it was hard to make disappointing wine with raw materials of this caliber.” But it was also impossible to achieve nobly sweet results save from Rieslaner, with its notorious penchant for spontaneous desiccation even in the absence of botrytis. This is the first vintage, incidentally, for which this estate has claimed organic bona fides, and Franzen – even if predictably – claims to find additional depth in his wines thanks to that conversion. (Not that this estate has ever been anything but entirely circumspect in any use of herbicides or pesticides.) Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300