The 2004 Dorsheimer Pittermannchen Riesling Kabinett smells of ripe peach, herbal distillates, and mothballs. The palate is smoky, meaty, and malty, with a cider-like expression of ripe apple and peach and a distinctively earthy minerality underlying a sweet finish. This is the most concentrated of Diel’s three 2004 Kabinett Rieslings but arguably the least “Kabinett”-like. In any event, it needs time to digest its residual sugar. Incidentally, readers with the requisite disposable income are urged to explore Diel’s 2003 T.B.A. (from the Pittermanchen), which was unfortuitously also being bottled the day I visited. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300