A 2007 Chassagne-Montrachet from Philippe Colin smells and tastes of pear nectar and lime laced with flowers. Glycerin-rich and subtly creamy, it finishes with a preservation of citrus oil and pear distillate high-tones, accompanied by wafting wood smoke, floral perfume, and pear pip bitterness. Unlike Colin's Saint-Romain, this shows its one-quarter new wood as a slightly resinous – but scarcely objectionable – overtone. It lacks quite the clarity or lift that accrues to the best 2007s of its appellation, but is still of high quality for a generic village wine for enjoying over the next 3-4 years. Since splitting the family inheritance with his brother Bruno in 2004, Philippe Colin has taken on supplemental grape contracts, but only where he is able to personally work the vines and call the shots at harvest. In 2007, he picked his entire acreage in one week, beginning September 4, and lightly chaptalized his wines to levels generally just on either side of 13%. Imported by Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185; Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400; Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524