The 2009 Nuits St. Georges Les Cailles bursts from the glass with an exciting melange of smoky dark fruit, new leather, tar and licorice. It is another implosive, young wine that will require considerable patience. The energy and verve both bode well for the future. Exotic spices and dark fruit emerge even more fully as the wine fleshes out on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039. My tasting with Denis and Bertrand Chevillon was one of the highlights of my most recent trip to Burgundy. The domaine’s 2009s are flat-out beautiful. Readers will not want to miss these gems. Importer: Kermit Lynch, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524