The 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Cailles has turned out beautifully, wafting from the glass with scents of sweet berries and plums mingled with blood orange, peonies and raw cocoa. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with a deep core of fruit, exquisitely refined tannins, lively acids and a long, perfumed finish, it's a magical bottle from Chevillon, and I'm happy to have a case in my cellar.