The finest Red Wine the Golitzens have fashioned to date, the 2003 (1,300 cases) is an assemblage of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Merlot. It bursts from the glass with black currants, violets, blackberries, and notes of dark cherries. Dense, medium-bodied, silky-textured, and intense, this black fruit-packed wine bears Quilceda Creek’s trademark marriage of power with elegance and sweet tannin. Projected maturity: now-2020. Congratulations Alex and Paul, welcome to the big leagues.Tel. (360) 568-2389; www.quilcedacreek.com

A wonderful nose of violets and mixed fruits, with hints of Asian spices. Long and seamless, textural and detailed, it leads into flavors of boysenberry, blueberry and cherry. The oak is very nicely applied, and the wine keeps coming at you with flavors of Bourbon barrel, soft soy, balsamic and moist earth, all beautifully integrated. ——P.G.(10/1/2006)—— 93