An outstanding wine, the chalk, slate and herb-scented 2003 Chablis Vaillons (white) soars from the glass. Concentrated, deep, and packed with sea shells, salt, and minerals, this impressive offering also reveals a long, focused, and supple finish. Projected maturity: now-2012. A Peter Vezan Selection, Paris fax #011-33-1-42-55-42-93; importers include North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (800) 266-6585; also a Patrick Lesec Selection, Paris Fax #: 011-33-4-66-37-67-23, various American importers including Bacchus Importers; tel. (800) 525-9699