There are around 100 cases of Boyer-Martenot 2007 Meursault Genevrieres – which is as much as there can ever be from their acreage – and nearly 40% more than their yield in 2006. A musky mingling of decadently floral and animal notes in the nose is bound to be off-putting to some tasters, but I find it intriguing. More familiar toasted hazelnut, lemon cream, and peaches also inform this vintage-typical example of richness along with vivacity. Hints of lemon oil, lanolin, and peach kernel combine with nuttiness for bitter-sweet shading that nicely compliments the wine’s generosity of finishing fruit. This should be worth following for 5-7 years. In a typical vintage, one of three barrels of Boyer’s Genevrieres is new; this year it’s two of four, which explains an overt but well-integrated sense of oak. Vincent Boyer’s 2007s – all of which were bottled by the following September, and weigh in at 12.5-13% alcohol – display a diversity of personalities, but share a sense of transparency to nuance, and a consistency of quality not equaled by his 2006s. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93