The 2003 Syrah was raised for seven months in a blend of new French and American oak. It is sweet and rather oaky, a bit heady, with that flamboyant touch that will remind one of a bold Barossa Shiraz. The finish is almost candied initially, very grapy, with hints of liqueur. The oak has a very strong flavor influence on the wine early on, at times obliterating the varietal characteristics. There is some sharpness and structure, some facets of the wine that enliven it, but the structure recedes rather quickly and this is certainly not a wine that will repay much cellaring. No one will be confused as to what the primary aspect of this simple wine is – the flamboyant fruit surrounded by oak. If this is your style, you will find it moderately well done. It is a bit too much for me. Drink now-2011. Danish-born Hans Jorgensen is the owner here, with his American wife (of Portuguese ancestry), Carrie. Cortes de Cima has become popular for Syrah in Southern Portugal, producing very modern-styled wines. The road to Syrah was a bit rocky – they started using Syrah, and running afoul of the wine regulations, thus branding one wine, simply, Incognito. The wines tend to be a bit flamboyant. Certain of them may make some tasters think “over-the-top.” They are usually not for the shy. The first release was in 1996.Importer: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155

A wine that is quite over the top, with perfumed fruit, dark, dusty tannins, layers of toast, dark, juicy plums and an aftertaste of black figs and bitter chocolate. Hold for a year or two.——R.V.(12/15/2007)—— 87