1994 is the debut vintage of La Doriane and 10,000 bottles of this exquisite Condrieu were produced. The vines average 15 years of age. Guigal fermented half of the wine in barrel and half in tank and then blended them. This exquisite Condrieu requires decanting and some breathing. As delicious as it is once the cork is popped, having had three bottles of it I have noticed that within 10-15 minutes of opening, the wine takes on a stunning degree of richness, intensity, and complexity. Extremely full-bodied, with an unctuous texture, considerable complexity and finesse, it displays no evidence of barrel fermentation in its huge nose of honeyed apricots, peaches, and floral scents. Layers of concentration are buttressed by enough acidity to give freshness and delineation to the wine's copious fruit components. It is an exquisite, rich Condrieu that gets my nod as one of the finest dry Condrieus of the vintage, rivaling those great wines produced by Yves Cuilleron, Georges Vernay, and Andre Perret. It should drink well for 2-3 years. This wine was tasted in September, 1995, from bottle, unless otherwise noted. Prices quoted are based on the current exchange rate of five francs per dollar. Guigal, along with Georges Vernay, is one of the two most important Condrieu producers. This estate has steadily increased their production of Condrieu, and several years ago purchased the 5-acre La Doriane vineyard, adjacent to Chateau Grillet. Guigal did not feel the quality of the 1993 was high enough to merit a vineyard-designated cuvee, so it was blended with his regular Condrieu. Importer: Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 731-6644

This debut Condrieu from Rhone master Guigal is exotic and distinctive, starting with toasty, spicy aromas and continuing through lush texture, pear and cream flavors and lingering finish. Full-bodied but smooth -- a bold bottle of Viognier. 800 cases made. -