The 1995 Condrieu La Doriane is spectacular. It is vinified in 50% new oak and 50% tank and then the wine is blended together. This superb single-vineyard Condrieu displays a knock-out nose of minerals, licorice, honey, and ripe peaches. Full-bodied, with a silky texture, gorgeous layers of fruit, and a dry, opulent finish, this exquisite Condrieu is my early candidate for "Condrieu of the vintage." Given how well the 1994 La Doriane is aging in bottle, this wine's window of drinkability may be broader than I initially suspected - 4-6 years, perhaps (although I would still opt for drinking it within 2-3 years of the vintage). As readers will discern from a thorough reading of this report, 1995 was an irregular vintage in Condrieu. Producers either hit the bull's eye or missed it completely. Guigal believes that too many growers panicked, thinking they had to harvest very early (as in 1994), when in fact the weather turned out to favor those who had patience and the guts to wait. He also believes many growers made a critical error by not destemming in 1995, since the stems were very vegetal and added too much acidity to the wine (an established fact born out in my tastings). Guigal is now the single largest producer of Condrieu. Guigal still has a couple of difficult vintages to bottle, but his 1992s have turned out surprisingly strong. In addition, the 1993s are satisfying for the vintage. Following 1993 are two great vintages for Guigal - 1994 and 1995. Importer: Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (818) 548-1200

"This is what Viognier is supposed to taste like" seems to be what this gorgeous French white wine is telling you. Has well-defined aromas of apricot, flowers, and spices, firm spiciness on the palate, without a hint of sweetness or heaviness, a long, long finish: Condrieu like this doesn't come around very often, so snap it up. 900 cases made. -