It’s easy to get ripe fruit in California and then plaster it in oak, but what’s so difficult to achieve is the crisp, minerally structure this wine displays. It’s rich in pineapple cream, Key lime pie, Meyer lemon sorbet, golden mango and vanilla oak flavors, but achieves balanced elegance with crisp acidity and a wonderful stony purity. Only 349 cases produced. ——S.H.(12/15/2010)—— 95