The first of the Syrahs is the saturated purple 2006 Syrah Cailloux Vineyard (with 4% Viognier in the blend). It displays a Cote-Rotie-like nose of smoked meat, game, and bacon with a dollop of burnt sugar and blueberry making an appearance. Layered, plush, and super-rich, this full-bodied, pleasure-bent effort has exceptional length. Difficult to resist now, it can be enjoyed over the next 10-12 years. Christophe Baron remains in fine form. His estate, just on the Oregon side of the Walla Walla AVA, consists of five small but distinct vineyards (41 acres in total – with more on the way). Syrah and the Bordeaux varietals are the principal focus but some of the finest parcels of Tempranillo, Viognier, and Grenache grown in the USA are on this estate. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically and much of the estate is planted on rootstock to prepare for the day when phylloxera works its way through Walla Walla. The wines are all fermented with indigenous yeasts and bottled unfined and unfiltered. The one most visible change since last year’s visit is that some of the plowing is now done by horse power. It was quite a sight to see a giant plow horse take tiny steps to turn from one row into the next. Cayuse is no longer a secret and it may be America’s toughest mailing list to crack (consider the prices compared to some of the other cult collectibles) but do whatever it takes to get your hands on a few of these gems.Tel. (509) 526-0686; www.cayusevineyards.com