The 2007 Syrah Cailloux Vineyard might be the greatest vintage from this vineyard to date, although I think the ’06 and '10 will be longer-lived. Seeing 4-6% Viognier and around 50-60% stems during fermentation, it’s a blockbuster effort that exudes notions of iron, dried blood, pepper, Asian spice and sweet red and black fruits. Full-bodied, supple and sexy on the palate, it has extraordinary purity, a layered, full mid-palate and beautiful depth and tannic structure that comes through on the finish. It’s far from unapproachable today, and I’d happily drink it anytime over the coming decade or more.

The saturated purple 2007 Syrah Cailloux Vineyard contains 4% Viognier in the blend. It displays a Cote-Rotie-like nose of smoked meat, olives, herbs, game, and bacon. Layered, plush, and super-rich, this full-bodied, pleasure-bent effort has exceptional length. Difficult to resist now, it can be enjoyed over the next 10-12 years. A cult of personality seems to have developed in Washington over the past couple of years. Whenever the name Christophe is mentioned, everyone immediately knows of whom you are talking. The man himself, Christophe Baron continues to find new and interesting things to do. His latest vineyard project is well underway on hillsides not far from his present location. His estate, just on the Oregon side of the Walla Walla AVA, consists of five small but distinct vineyards (41 acres in total – with more on the way). Syrah and the Bordeaux varietals are the principal focus but some of the finest parcels of Tempranillo and Grenache grown in the USA are on this estate. Unfortunately, there will be no more varietally bottled Viognier which will now be used only as a blending grape. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically and much of the estate is planted on rootstock to prepare for the day when phylloxera works its way through Walla Walla. The wines are all fermented with indigenous yeasts and bottled unfined and unfiltered.Tel. (509) 526-0686; www.cayusevineyards.com

7 The only one of the Cayuse Syrahs that is co-fermented with Viognier, this opens with a stunning, floral bouquet, showing extraordinary depth and texture. The wine has a floral top, a thickly fruity middle and a base with smoke, rock and meat. Still very young, it is already a complete, fully-realized, near-perfect wine with a finish that extends for many minutes. This should age for 25 –30 years. Right now, it’s almost frozen in place; still a bit tannic, but with superb aging potential.——P.G.(2/1/2011)—— 99