From half-bottle, Ramonet's 1995 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers is showing brilliantly, wafting from the glass with aromas of crisp Anjou pear, warm bread, citrus oil and iodine. Medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, it's a concentrated, multidimensional wine with real volume at the core and an appreciable presence of structuring dry extract.