The extraordinary team of Steve Kistler and Mark Bixler fashions exhilarating Chardonnays that are compellingly complex, lavishly rich, and exceptionally well-balanced. One can quibble over which is best, but they are all immensely satisfying Chardonnays. Given how irresistible they are young, most of them are probably drunk within hours of purchase. That may be a shame, as Kistler's best cuvees of 1987 and 1988 are aging exceptionally well. Although Kistler's 1991 Chardonnays are not as opulent, explosively rich, and authoritative as their 1990s, they are among the greatest of the vintage. Slightly deeper-colored than the Durrell Vineyard Sans Hill is the 1991 Vine Hill Road Chardonnay which exhibits more alcohol and plenty of richness. Slightly chunkier, it offers a big, fleshy mouthful of interesting Chardonnay fruit. Drink it over the next several years.