The 1997 Fume Blanc To-Kalon Estate Reserve is slightly more delicate than the I Block, but beautifully delineated, with a leesy, citrusy, grapefruit, melony character intertwined with smoke, minerals, and spice. A medium-bodied, enthralling style of Fume Blanc, it should drink well for 3-4 years. I think it is safe to say that no white wine at Robert Mondavi goes through 100% malolactic fermentation given winemaker Tim Mondavi's belief in trying to produce wines with flavor, vibrancy, and as he says, "nerve." Tel. (707) 259-9463 and (800) MONDAVI; Fax (707) 963-1007