The 2004 Fume Blanc Reserve To-Kalon Vineyard is meant to emulate a Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc, but in addition to those characteristics, it reveals some of the more waxy, honeyed richness of a top Sauvignon from Bordeaux. Its extraordinary aromas of figs, flint, honey, and melons are followed by a medium to full-bodied wine boasting impressive precision, striking elegance, and a long, rich finish. It is a gorgeous, singular expression of Sauvignon that resembles no other made in California. I suppose it will always be difficult to comprehend that this winery is no longer being run by Robert Mondavi and his sons, Tim and Michael. However, their legacy of quality and their contribution to the appreciation of fine wine in the United States is irrefutable. These offerings, made by Tim Mondavi and his staff, are very impressive. Tel. (707) 226-1395 and (800) MONDAVI; Fax (707) 251-4386