Among Lafon's three Volnay cuvees, both the Volnay-Champans and Volnay-Santenots were bottled unfined and unfiltered. The Volnay-Clos des Chenes was fined, but not filtered. I have reservations about the wine, although it is at least good, perhaps very good. I can see why Dominique Lafon fined it, given the fact that it is still a hard, tight, angular, tannic, stern style of wine with good ripe, black-cherry fruit, a sense of terroir, and an elegant, medium-bodied, sweet finish. It needs 3-4 years of cellaring and will last for 15, but my instincts suggest it will always be a trifle too austere and tough. Importer: Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 731-6644