The 2005 Volnay Clos des Chenes was bottled the day I visited, however I tasted the pre-bottled assemblage. Black cherry and red currant fruit are tinged with ginger and coffee grounds. This exhibits a vintage-typical clarity, sap and freshness yet also a flattering creaminess of texture. Cool, fresh fruit character, subtle suggestions of fungus and flowers, and faintly sizzling spiciness inform a long, refined, and refreshing yet soothing finish. Lafon says he went easy on extraction this year precisely to showcase the sort of vividly fresh fruit that is on exhibit here. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers), fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70; A Daniel Johnnes Selection imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY, tel. (516) 677 9300; Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA, tel. (781) 352 1100; Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559 1040