The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes offers up aromas of plummy fruit, candied peel and smoky grilled meats, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny palate that's pure and melting this year, concluding with a stony finish. It's a pretty middle-weight Clos des Chênes that will drink well in its comparative youth.