The 2009 Morey St. Denis comes across as big and burly, with elements of wildness and angularity that are hard to escape. The 2010, which I tasted during the same visit, was quite a bit more interesting. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. This is a very strong set of wines from Romain Taupenot. The 2009s are quite marked by the year. Today my preference is for the 2010s because the cooler year balanced some of the more overt, fruit-forward leanings that define the house style. Tasting all of the 2009s and 2010s together really brought the qualities of these two very different vintages into focus. Importers: Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620, Imported by Scott Paul Wines, Carlton, OR; tel. (503) 852 7300; J.A.O. Wine Imports, McLean, VA; contact@jaowineimports.com