The internationally-styled, dark ruby/garnet-colored 1997 Brunello di Montalcino is somewhat one-dimensional, offering straightforward aromas of sweet new oak, black cherries, and currant fruit. In the mouth, it is medium-bodied and clean with a modest finish. There is sweet fruit, but little complexity, depth, or length. However, it is one of the finest wines this estate has yet produced. Drink it over the next decade. Importer: Banfi Vintners, Old Brookville, NY; tel. (516)626-9200

Dark ruby-garnet. Aromas of blackberry, coffee bean and meat. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long, caressing finish. Big and racy. Still needs some bottle age.--1997 Italian blind retrospective. Best after 2009. 32,500 cases made, 14,000 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Brunello di Montalcino Select to Add

The Mariani family has produced a hugely concentrated, wood-dominated wine with powerful smoky aromas and concentrated black, ripe, chunky fruit. It’s heavy on the berries, both in the rustic, brambly nose and on the deep, tight, classy palate. Toasty flavors come through the fruit, but these will soften and blend in with aging. Unlike many Brunellos, this one is drinkable right now, but could be cellared for 10 years or more.——R.V.(8/1/2002)—— 92