Like its sibling, the 2007 Syrah comes from the Watch Hill, Demetria, and Shadow Canyon vineyards. Reminiscent of a modest French Crozes-Hermitage, it reveals black olive and tapenade notes intermixed with black currant and earth. Leaner and more austere than the MJM, with good acidity, medium body, and impressive freshness, it should drink nicely for 3-4 years. Tel. (805) 737-0200; Fax (805) 558-3215

Here’s a rich, savory Syrah, made Northern Rhone-style. Dense and full-bodied, it displays complex flavors of blackberries, dark unsweetened chocolate, plums, tobacco, leather and black pepper. The tannins are robust, but very finely ground.——S.H.(12/15/2009)—— 92