Beringer produces three Chardonnay cuvees. The handful of lucky readers who get the chance to taste the rich, quintessentially California Chardonnay Sbragia Limited Release know just how much flavor can be packed into this varietal. The 1994 Chardonnay Sbragia Limited Release is an extraordinary success. The wine's primary vineyard source is the Gamble Ranch, and it is aged in 100% new oak. 100% new oak would dominate most Chardonnays, but not this massively-endowed, oily, honeyed wine that offers huge amounts of flavor. It is about as concentrated as any Chardonnay in the world, and although more consistent, it is reminiscent of the old style Chalone Chardonnays, such as the monumental 1980 and 1981, the likes of which Chalone has not made since. The 1994 Sbragia Limited Release should drink well for 2-3 years. The last bottle of 1991 I had (in November, 1994) made me look like a stooge for my initial comment that it should be drunk immediately. It had not lost a bit of fruit and was going strong after three years. If you have never tasted the intensity of a great Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Montrachet, check out the Sbragia Limited Release, for about $33 a bottle as opposed to about $600 for a bottle of the DRC Montrachet. This exceptionally well-run winery continues its impressive display of high quality wines in all price ranges and varietal categories. Tel. (707) 963-7115; Fax (707) 963-1735