For readers lucky enough to find any, there are usually between 1,000-4,000 cases of the extroverted, nearly over the top Sbragia Limited Release Chardonnay. The 2001 offers scents of orange marmalade, lemon butter, tropical fruits, honeysuckle, and a hint of caramel. It is a dense, full-bodied, delicious white to drink over the next 3-4 years. Tel. (707) 963-7115; Fax (707) 963-1735

If size is your thing, here’s a Godzilla of a Chard, as you’d expect from Ed Sbragia. The deep gold color suggests the oak level, which is massive in vanilla and buttered toast. But the flamboyant tropical fruit easily handles it. Oily, rich and unctuous through the spicy finish.——S.H.(12/1/2003)—— 92