Tart-edged plum and black raspberry are laced with orange rind and smoky black tea on the nose and frisky, firm palate of Penner-Ash’s 2011 Pinot Noir Zena Crown Vineyard. There is a bit of gum-numbing to the tannins here, and it’s possible that the limited use of whole clusters here accentuated them, while not (or not yet noticeably) adding floral or spice nuances of the sort I more positively associate with that technique. But there’s certainly serious grip and energy here, and it should be fascinating to follow the wine’s evolution through at least 2018. Lynn and Ron Penner-Ash have once again fielded a successful collection in which they showcase their diverse vineyard by means of diverse cellar approaches, in some instances turning out Pinots that struck me as highly vintage-typical and in others as somewhat against-the-grain. (For more about Penner-Ash methodology and vineyard sources, consult my introductory coverage of them in Issue 202.) Tel. (503) 554 5545