The 1997 Barolo Riserva can only add to the doubts about the final stature of its vintage, many of whose wines are beginning to taste a bit fatigued. The aromas of tar, licorice, wild mushrooms, and underbrush could not be more traditional, and the intensity and length indicate that the wine is well concentrated. But the tannins are somewhat grainy, the finish slightly hard, and the overall sweetness and roundness are inferior to those of the house’s best vintages. The wine will last, but I have some serious doubts about an eventual future improvement. Drink: 2005-2016. Importer: Wine Wave, Jericho, NY; tel. (516) 433-1121