The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna di Pianrosso Santa Caterina d’Oro is impressive. Interestingly, it is quite a bit better than the regular Pianrosso. In this difficult vintage the decision to make a Riserva probably robbed the straight Pianrosso of some high quality fruit. Black cherries, flowers, licorice and mint are woven together in this powerful, structured Brunello while firm tannins frame the long, intense finish. I especially like the way the fruit continues to flesh out with additional time in the glass. This is a great showing and a terrific effort from Ciacci. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. Paolo Bianchini’s 2007 Brunelli are quite a bit better than the 2006s. One of the recent evolutions at Ciacci has been Bianchini’s desire to make an entry-level Brunello that is more affordable than his wines have been in the past, hence a greater separation in terms of quality and price between the straight Brunello and the Pianrosso. The Brunelli undergo alcoholic and malolactic fermentation in steel, and are aged in cask. Importer: Indigenous Selections, Fort Lauderdale FL; tel. (954) 530 4021

Vigna Pianrosso is a vineyard-designate Brunello that opens with warming notes of spice, cardamom, ginger and rhubarb. The wine delivers a very smooth and creamy texture in the mouth. ——M.L.(4/1/2011)—— 91