It seems like yesterday that Ric Forman began his career, yet he is now one of California's veteran wine-makers. From his early days (nearly 20 years ago) at Sterling he has built an impressive resume. The proprietor of beautiful vineyards tucked high in the hills between the Silverado Trail and Conn Valley, he has launched a new wine, a Merlot from a vineyard called Thorvilos, that he developed along with the well-known viticulturist, David Abreu. The 1995, which had just finished malolactic fermentation, blew me away, but the wine will not be in the marketplace for several years. The 1993 Cabernet Sauvignon is a more muscular wine than the 1994, with considerable tannin (sweet rather than astringent), full body, outstanding ripeness, admirable purity, and a long, textured, structured finish. Although approachable, 3-4 years of cellaring are warranted. It, too, is a 20-year wine. Tel. (707) 963-0234; Fax (707) 963-5384