The excellent, possibly outstanding, dark ruby/purple-tinged 2004 Zinfandel Barricia Vineyard (76% Zinfandel and 24% Petite Sirah) reveals pretty, elegant black cherry flavors intermixed with loamy soil, pepper, and spice notes. Medium-bodied, with good depth, ripeness, and overall varietal character, it should evolve nicely for 4-6 years. One of my favorite songs is called “Poker Face” by a relatively unknown country crooner named Rob Jungklas. One of the lines in that great song sums up how I’m feeling about Ravenswood these days ... “You don’t have to meet the devil to lose your soul on this black night.” Ravenswood along with Ridge and a handful of other wineries were the reference points for stunning Zinfandel during the decade of the 1980s, but since the winery’s sale, these wines are mere shadows of what they were a decade ago (despite the fact that Joel Peterson is still in charge). While some of the current cuvees merited respectable scores, the soul and guts of Ravenswood Zinfandels are missing.Tel. (707) 938-1960

One of Ravenswood’s most dependable Zins, this contains a good proportion of Petite Sirah, making it ripe and full-bodied. In a warm vintage like ’04, the wine is almost Porty, with strong blackberry, plum, stewed prune, plumped raisin and peppery spice flavors. Yet it remains dry and balanced. Best with rich barbecues and roasts. ——S.H.(6/1/2007)—— 87